Customizing Makeup for Different Eye Shapes

One of the most powerful aspects of makeup is its ability to enhance our natural features. Understanding how to tailor your eye makeup techniques to your specific eye shape can dramatically transform your overall look. In this guide, we'll explore professional approaches to makeup application for different eye shapes.

Understanding Your Eye Shape

Before diving into specific techniques, it's important to correctly identify your eye shape. Look straight into a mirror with your face relaxed and assess the following:

• Is your crease visible when your eyes are open?
• Does the outer corner of your eye turn upward or downward?
• How much space exists between your lashes and brows?
• Is the white of your eye visible all around your iris, or is it partially covered by your lids?

These observations will help you determine which eye shape category you fall into, though many people have combination shapes with characteristics of multiple types.

Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are considered the most versatile shape, characterized by a visible crease and an iris that touches both the top and bottom lids with minimal white showing.

Makeup Techniques for Almond Eyes

• Shadow placement: Almond eyes can carry most shadow placements well. Focus on enhancing the natural crease with medium tones and highlighting the center of the lid for dimension.
• Eyeliner: Both thin and thick liner styles work beautifully. A classic wing that follows the natural upward tilt enhances the almond shape.
• Mascara: Apply mascara to both upper and lower lashes to frame the eye. Focus on the outer lashes to enhance the almond shape.
• Pro tip: Create a subtle cat-eye effect by concentrating darker shadow at the outer corners to emphasize the natural lift of almond eyes.

Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes have a fold of skin that droops over the crease, making the lid appear smaller or sometimes completely hidden when eyes are open.

Makeup Techniques for Hooded Eyes

• Shadow placement: Apply with eyes open to ensure proper placement. Create a "fake crease" slightly above the natural crease to create the illusion of more lid space.
• Eyeliner: Opt for thin lines that won't take up precious lid space. Consider tight-lining (applying liner to the upper waterline) for definition without sacrificing space.
• Mascara: Curl lashes thoroughly and use lengthening mascara to open up the eye area.
• Pro tip: Use matte shadows for creating dimension on hooded eyes, as shimmer can emphasize the hood. Keep darker colors above the crease rather than on the lid.

Round Eyes

Round eyes typically show white around the iris at both top and bottom. They're characterized by a more circular appearance rather than an elongated one.

Makeup Techniques for Round Eyes

• Shadow placement: Use darker shades on the outer third of the lid and blend upward and outward to create elongation.
• Eyeliner: Focus liner on the outer two-thirds of the eye, creating a wing that extends upward and outward to add length.
• Mascara: Emphasize the outer lashes more than the center lashes to create a more elongated appearance.
• Pro tip: Avoid applying dark colors along the entire lower lash line, which can enhance roundness. Instead, apply darker colors only to the outer third of the lower lash line.

Monolid Eyes

Monolid eyes have little to no visible crease, with a flatter appearance across the eye area from lash line to brow.

Makeup Techniques for Monolid Eyes

• Shadow placement: Create dimension by using a gradient effect, with darker colors close to the lash line, gradually lightening as you move up. The transition between colors creates the illusion of depth.
• Eyeliner: A thick winged liner can create beautiful definition. Try the "batwing" technique where the liner is thickest at the center of the lid, tapering to a wing.
• Mascara: Focus on curling lashes upward to open the eye area. Consider individual false lashes for special occasions.
• Pro tip: Use shimmery or satin finishes on the center of the lid to create the illusion of a fuller lid.

Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes have an outer corner that tilts slightly downward, creating a gentle drooping effect.

Makeup Techniques for Downturned Eyes

• Shadow placement: Focus darker shades on the outer corner, but blend upward at a 45-degree angle to create lift.
• Eyeliner: Create a wing that extends upward to counteract the downward tilt. Start the wing from the middle of the lid rather than the corner.
• Mascara: Curl lashes and focus on building volume at the outer corners, brushing lashes upward and outward.
• Pro tip: Highlight the inner corner and under the brow to lift the entire eye area. Avoid extending dark shadow or liner too far down at the outer corner.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes are set deeper into the skull, creating a more pronounced brow bone and sometimes casting shadows on the lid.

Makeup Techniques for Deep-Set Eyes

• Shadow placement: Use lighter, reflective shades on the lid to bring it forward. Avoid dark colors in the crease, which can make eyes recede further.
• Eyeliner: Keep liner thin and close to the lash line to prevent eyes from appearing more recessed.
• Mascara: Focus on building volume at the base and center of lashes to draw attention outward.
• Pro tip: Highlight under the brow bone with a matte shade rather than shimmer to minimize the prominence of the brow bone.

Close-Set Eyes

Close-set eyes have less space between them than the width of one eye.

Makeup Techniques for Close-Set Eyes

• Shadow placement: Apply lighter shades to the inner half of the lid and darker shades to the outer half to create the illusion of width.
• Eyeliner: Start liner from the middle of the lid rather than the inner corner, and extend it outward with a wing.
• Mascara: Focus on the outer lashes to draw attention outward.
• Pro tip: Highlight the inner corner with a brightening shade, but extend it slightly onto the inner part of the lid to create the illusion of more space.

Wide-Set Eyes

Wide-set eyes have more space between them than the width of one eye.

Makeup Techniques for Wide-Set Eyes

• Shadow placement: Apply darker shades to the inner corners and lighter shades to the outer areas to visually bring eyes closer together.
• Eyeliner: Extend liner toward the inner corners, and use a short wing or none at all on the outer corners.
• Mascara: Focus on building volume on the inner lashes.
• Pro tip: Use a darker shade in the inner corner instead of the traditional highlight to minimize the space between eyes.

Finding Your Signature Look

While understanding your eye shape is valuable, remember that makeup is ultimately about personal expression. Use these techniques as a starting point, but don't be afraid to experiment and adapt based on what makes you feel most confident.

Many people have combination eye shapes with features of multiple categories. In these cases, cherry-pick techniques from different sections that address your specific features.

The most flattering makeup looks are those that make you feel beautiful—regardless of whether they follow traditional guidelines for your eye shape.